The Manly Art of Knitting
Apropos of Real Men Knit, here’s another documentary on the theme, by three first-time filmmakers:
Any more of this, and people just might call it a movement. (See also Real Men Also Crochet.)
Updates from November, 2006 Toggle Comment Threads | Keyboard Shortcuts
-
Brian Sawyer
-
Brian Sawyer
Teach Someone to Knit via IM
My latest video podcast over at Hackszine shows how to teach a craft, such as knitting, using iChat’s One-Way Video Chat feature.
-
Brian Sawyer
WIP It
For as much as I talk about knitting, I realize I haven’t posted much of my own work in quite a while. I just haven’t had the time (to knit, not to post). But today I reached something of a milestone, so I thought it was worth mentioning. Perhaps having others know what I’m up to will give me the encouragement (or guilt) necessary to keep moving.
Anyway, here’s what I’m working on now, the Jade Pullover from Elsebeth Lavold’s Designer’s Choice Book Two: The Sentimental Journey Collection:
As I mentioned, it’s been slow going (I started this piece just over a year ago), but I finally finished the back:
As you can see, the back and front are simple stockinette stitch, which is kind of tedious when you don’t have a lot of spare time to knit, but I’m really looking forward to learning lace when I get to the sleeves and neck.
Kazzan is discussing. 
Brian Sawyer
Knit Lit?
I somehow doubt that The Friday Night Knitting Club will spark a new literary genre, but the fanfare over its publication certainly signals a trend:
With knitting captivating a new generation of women, writer Kate Jacobs based her debut novel around a yarn shop in New York — winning actress Julia Roberts’ attention.
Roberts, a self-confessed knitter, was passed a copy of the novel, ‘The Friday Night Knitting Club,’ in which she briefly appeared and enjoyed it so much that she is making it into a film.
Thanks to Ed, who perhaps might have been just a little disingenuous when he expressed fear of a term (knit lit) he appears to have coined himself (I didn’t see it mentioned in the article).
-
Aimee
Oooh, sounds like a very fun read.
Brian Sawyer
I Want a Knitting Machine
Before getting to Craftland last week, Diana Eng gave Natalie, Brian, and me a real treat: a tour of the Rhode Island School of Design’s Apparel Department (from which she graduated in 2005). The students were all frantically wrapping up their final projects, which made it an exciting time to visit.
UPDATE: Check out Natalie’s report on our afternoon for the Craft Blog, as well as her pictures from our trip.
I of course left with a new high-ticket item added to my long-term wishlist:
That’s a knitting machine our group is ogling. Here it is in action, alongside a close-up of its mechanisms and teeth:
They even have a machine to stitch your seams together! Here’s a picture of one being used for that purpose, alongside a finished piece that was made with a combination of these machines and some inevitable hand work:
Of course, I guess there are some things you’ll always have to do by hand, such as the tedious task of weaving in ends (now that’s something I really wish I could automate!):
I had to ask the obvious question: is this considered cheating? That is, if you give someone a knitted gift made on a machine, are you somehow being dishonest (the expectation being that you hand-knit the piece)? Natalie pointed out that machine knitting is actually a respected form of craft in its own right, allowing some stitches and techniques that are simply impossible to do by hand, and that there are whole groups of designers and crafters devoted to this niche art.
Anyone else have a different perspective to bring to the cheating question? Or do any of you have experience using one of these things, or any leads on where to pick one up on the cheap?
Dawna Colley, 
haley and 14 others are discussing. -
Dharia
*drool*
(that’s another one of those things on my list of “to do when i have all the free time in the world.)as for leads: They often show up on craigslist or ebay at very reasonable prices. If you keep an eye on your local “Penny Saver”-type magazine you can often find them /really/ cheap!
-
Stephen
I got one last Xmas and, to be honest, I haven’t tried it out yet. Sure, not making the time to sit down with it is a factor, but I’m at a loss to figure out what I’d want to make in that much stockinette! Could be good for large basic felted objects… Also, I have so much yarn that I plan on handknitting that I don’t want to sacrifice any for the machine.
I still think it’s “hand-made” as far as gifting, especially with the maker’s design input. It’s just not “hand-knit.” I’d want to read up more on techniques and possibilities before I call it cheating.
-
geORge
Nifty! I did my MFA waaay back in 1978 using one of these with only a single bed of latch hooks. Have a look. A much younger me with my machine. I still have that Brother KH-800.
-
Brooker Smith
I have a kh 800 that i am looking to part with as it was my mom’s and i have no interest in it. I have a piture of all the parts that come with it, just reply and i will send.
It needs a good home so get back in touch.
Thank you
Brooker
P.S. it will go up on craigs list if i do get a reply-
sji1981
Hi I am looking for a knitting machine which I can afford. You have not wrote how much you are asking for? Please let me know. Thanks
-
Siew Chin
Hi, do you still have it? Thanks!
-
-
Brian Sawyer
Thanks, Brooker, but this turned out to be kind of a passing fancy (as I’d expected it would) and now inhabits that increasingly crowded space in my brain devoted to clever gadgets I dream over but will likely never own.
-
Joyce
Hi Brooker,
If you still have the knitting machine, I would love to have it. My two daughters and I would put it to good use. Please let me know.
Thanks. -
rosalind
I have a brother punchcard kniiting machine(modelKH830)with lace carriage+intarsia carriage, you can do fairisle and work with more than 1 colour+sets of pattern cards for jumpers/cardiagans+pre punched punchcard patterns+roll of spare punchcard blanks to make your own patterns. Good selection of knitting books approz 100 copies(machine knitting news,etc)+complete sets of machine kniiting books. will knit 3ply,4ply and double knit wool,all comes with instruction mannual and comes in a carring case. This machine is in good working order.This is ideal for a beginner.If there is anyone out there who would be interested please give me an e-mail and i can give you more information. I am looking to sell the machine and all the items above for £120 or nearest offer.
Looking forward to your reply.
Rosalind. -
rosalind
FOR SALE BROTHER PUNCHCARD KNITTING MACHINE (MODEL KH830) I AM LOOKING TO SELL THE MACHINE FOR £120 OR NEAREST OFFER. IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED YOU CAN GIVE ME AN E-MAIL ON rosalind.wetton@ntlworld.com
IS THERE ANYONE OUT THERE WHO WOULD BE INTERESTED?
I LIVE IN NUNEATON IN WARWICKSHIRE. -
Teresa
Hi Brooker and/or Joyce (if your request was met) .. do you – by any chance – have the manual for this machine, which you’d be willing to copy? (for a fee of course!).
It’s one of the few Brother models (now so old, I guess) that ISN’T up on their free manual download site and I have tried EVERYWHERE to get a copy. Thanks – Teresa in CA
-
asher sydenham
i don’t believe it is cheating. its my degree infact im at nottingham trent university in england studying fashion knitwear and knitted textiles.
the machines are great, and extremely tactile in the case of the domestic machine and super easy to pick up how to use.
and like you said they are a machine that allows you to explore stitches and designs you could never even dream of achieving with needles and yarn.
not to mention that we some of the machine ( more specifically the industrical machine you can achieve a fabric and a ridiculously fine gauge.so my answer to this question is it is so not cheating and knitted gifts on these machine are wonderful x
if you check out my blog there are some photo’s of some socks i created on the machine for my last project you may be interested
-
Paula
I’m looking at a Brother KH-800 that is up for sale on eBay. The listing has no mention of punch cards. Anyone out there know if this model comes with punch cards? Thanks, Paula
-
Ejirefe Mary
I want a knitting machine.
I also want to know how much a knitting machine would cost me. its very urgent and important.Thank you
-
Helen Snow
I want a knitting machine as well. Unfortunately, I do not know anything about them or where to start. Help!!! I took to crocheting like a duck to water. About five years ago while working at a local nursing home, I decided to have the residents teach me how to crochet. Little did they know what they were getting in to. I loved it!! After several sweaters, afghans, scarfs, I am now looking toward brighter horizons. I want a knitting machine. Do you have any information to share with me?
-
haley
i have a brother kh260 bulky machine for sale. i purchased it 3 years ago for $900 and it is in good condition. if you’re interested, please email me: thompson.haley@gmail.com
it’s currently for sale for $600 but i’m willing to negotiate. thanks! -
Dawna Colley
I have the entire knitting outfit – a Brothers electronic KH970 with Garter carriage . I am willing to add plenty of yarn, patterns and stand along with the disk drive to read some of the patterns. Estimated cost when new (2000) over $4000. Willing to take best offer.
-
Hoda Fateen
Are you still interested in a knitting machine? I have a brand new Brother, original price was $1200.00. Make a reasonable offer and it’s yours!
-
Hoda Fateen
check out shawlsbyhoda.com
Brian Sawyer
A Peek Behind the Shelving at B&N
While browsing the Crafts section of my local Barnes & Noble, I stumbled upon a couple interesting documents, nestled behind a few knitting books in one of their displays. I’m not sure entirely what to make of them, but there must be something to learn from them, so I thought I’d post them here and solicit feedback.
The first printout seems pretty straightforward: it’s a dated promotional inventory of books to rotate on the special “Knit/Crochet” display (which is a very important placement to have, because their whole Crafts section is a mess of thin-spined titles smashed tightly against each other in the relatively small shelf space allotted to the category).
The purpose of the second printout is less clear to me, though I must admit that the List Name for this group of titles intrigues me (wtf needlecrafts):
If anyone has any information to add about either of them (especially the meaning of the second), I’d love to hear it.
UPDATE: It has just been brought to my attention that, though I’d assumed the more colorful meaning of WTF (e.g., “Here’s where to put all the needlecraft books that make you say “WTF”), it’s more likely that the list is an in-store printout used by staff to help point people toward a high-demand subcategory. In this case, “WTF Needlecrafts” means where to find needlecrafts. (Thanks, Dan!)
Brian Sawyer
Real Men Knit: The Review
About a month ago, I mentioned a new DVD called Real Men Knit. Not having seen the actual film, I limited my comments to the way it was being marketed, focusing primarily on its online trailer:
Though, as a male knitter myself, I was excited about the idea of a movie devoted to profiling my smallish (but growing) demographic, the trailer disturbed me by claiming that knitting is actually a craft invented by men and, therefore, a domain that rightly belongs to men, rather than just show that men are equally capable of knitting. That is, though the title claimed “real men knit,” the content seemed to say “knitting is really for men,” which strikes me as a simplification that’s just as dangerous and damaging as “knitting is women’s work.”
This criticism sparked some interesting discussion in the comments, including this one from my own mother:
In the 80’s there was a book called Real Men Don’t Eat Quiche. It humorously poked fun at the masculine stereotype of the “manly man” who ate only meat and potatoes, not “chef’s food.” Of course eating quiche does not make a man effeminate… nor does knitting. … I suspect their choice of this title was a reference to that book, its humor, and its premise (behind the tongue-in-cheek humor) that one should do as one pleases and not let stereotypes dictate your behavior.
which brought a response from Wendy at Unconfined Mind (the publishers of the DVD):
That’s exactly what we had in mind when we decided on that title. … That and the fact that being ‘real’ means you’re being honest which means you’re ok about doing what you want to do without worrying about what others think. The men in the video who knit are are very ‘real’ and I hope they will help inspire other men to have the courage to follow their convictions.
Since Wendy took the time to comment, I offered to give the film a fair shake if she sent it to me to review. I received it this past weekend and am happy to clarify the differences between my impression of the trailer and my thoughts on the actual DVD, which didn’t actually end up focusing on the points I had issue with in the trailer.
Initial Thoughts
First, upon holding the case, I noticed the DVD’s subtitle, which I missed in the small cover image (shown above in this post) at the movie’s web site: “It’s not just women’s work … In fact, it never was!” This is the more balanced stance I was hoping to see, and I’m happy to report that it reflects the general spirit of most of the DVD. Almost all of the “knitting was invented by men” or “knitting belongs to men” claptrap in the movie actually appears in the short trailer, and in context it’s actually much less offensive. In fact, when mentioned at all, the return to this theme is always clearly with thumb planted firmly in cheek (e.g., “Knit yourself a hat … a scarf … or even a cod piece!”).
The whole package ended up being much more about the characteristics, tradition, and value of knitting in general than its practice specifically by men. Clearly, the angle behind its release and marketing was to capitalize on a niche market, as well as to specifically target a segment of the population that might be interested in “the knitting craze” but otherwise too intimidated by gender stereotypes to get involved themselves. But, though all of the subjects of the movie are male, the spirit of the topic should be equally interesting and rewarding to people of any age, gender, or background.
Documentary
The 32-minute documentary begins with a brief history of knitting (including the caveat that “no one knows who invented knitting, but it’s clear that men were involved from the beginning,” which is a much more tempered claim than “we invented it!”), some of its cultural implications, its regional nuances, and other interesting background about the craft. I found this account fascinating and actually wish it were given a little more space on the DVD. At its current length, it seems rather perfunctory, and I couldn’t help feeling there was much more information to mine here, though I understand why that background was beyond the scope of this feature’s mission.
After the history, the focus switches to the heart of the project by interviewing male knitters of a variety of ages and skill levels. Most of these men and boys mention their gender only when prompted by the interviewer, and then in a humorous, anecdotal way, rather than as official spokesmen for any male knitting agenda. Like the construction of the movie in general, the participants instead focus on why they knit, what knitting means to them, and how it enriches their lives. There are some good personal interest stories here, many of which resonated with my own experience and perspective.
Interviews with Experts
Two separate features on the disc profile and interview “famous” and “legendary” male knitwear designers Kaffe Fassett (who recognizes and appreciates that his celebrity is not of the “rockstar” variety) and Brandon Mably. These extended interviews (clips from each of them appear in the documentary, the duplication of which is only slightly annoying for someone watching the whole thing in one sitting) offer some valuable insight into knitting design, practice, and lifestyle. In addition to their personal stories of their relationship with knitting and its importance and effect on their lives, these interviews allow an invaluable peek into a shared aesthetic and purpose for the art of designing knitwear (rather than just the practice of knitting, which is covered well in the documentary’s interviews with “regular” knitters).
My only quibble with these otherwise excellent interviews is that Fassett and Mably are design partners and therefore share the same philosophy about what constitutes something worth knitting. In particular, they are firm believers in the power of color, both in life and in art/craft (before developing a love of knitting, needlepoint, crochet, quilting, and pretty much any other craft involving needles and fiber, Fassett’s fascination originated with his work as a painter). They have intriguing, insightful things to say about the use and importance of color, but neither of them are interested in what they call the “technical” aspects of knitting.
This means that they would never dream of designing or knitting any piece in a single color and are repulsed by the mere thought of doing so, which is fine and certainly their prerogative (and the examples in the DVD of their gorgeous designs prove that they really needn’t stray from their specialty), but it’s important to point out that this is simply the rather narrow view of two specialists in the field. I would have liked to hear from a designer who was equally interested in using texture and different stitches to achieve the sort of spectacular results these featured designers achieve with color. Though one knitter in the documentary sings the praises of lace, cables, and a variety of other techniques that interest me (and many, many like-minded knitters), they don’t get much respect or attention from the experts, which is a bit of an oversight, I think, as well as a shame.
Knitting Lesson
The final piece to the collection on this DVD is a complete knitting lesson (or, as complete as any 20-minute lesson can be), taught by Eugene Bourgeois, the proprietor of The Philosopher’s Wool Company. Bourgeois is a soft-spoken, gentle soul, and he strikes me as a very relaxed, patient teacher. Perhaps it comes from (or is the cause of) living with sheep in a beautiful setting. I must admit that this segment kind of made me want to have his life.
Getting beyond my jealousy and into the actual lesson, I’m always curious about the many different ways that knitters learn to cast on, so I was interested to see Bourgeois’ method (it’s different than mine). He then provides your basic introduction to knitting in the round and finishing up a simple cap. It’s tough to teach in a video, but this segment does a good job, so it’s worth a shot (there’s really no substitute, though, for having a knowledgeable hand physically guide you).
The DVD package includes the simple but complete hat pattern featured in the lesson, for you to make yourself. All you’ll need is a skein of two-ply yarn and a pair of size 8 circular needles. Here’s a tip, ladies: packaging the needles and yarn with this DVD would make a great gift for the man in your life. Not only will he perhaps learn patience, the value of working with his hands, quiet meditation, and a skill that can occupy him wherever he goes, but you just might get a nice knitted piece or two down the road.
Closing Thoughts
If this DVD is really a call to arms for getting “manly men” to pick up a pair of sticks, I’m not sure it will succeed in changing any minds that aren’t already open to changing, but I’m no longer sure that’s really the intention. It’s largely preaching to the converted (or, at least, the already curious), and it does a good job at that. Knitting is for everyone who’s looking for the benefits it offers, and this movie illustrates those benefits to anyone who’s interested in learning about them.
In the end, though not made explicit, the logic behind the title appears to go basically something like this, beginning with a premise that anyone could appreciate:
- Knitting is good for the soul.
- All men have souls.
- What’s good for the part is good for the whole.
- Knitting is good for all men (including the subset that identifies as “real”).
Q.E.D.
Geralyn, 
-
Bezzie
Thanks for the review. I recently saw the trailer and had the same reaction as you did. It came off as very sexual-secular.
I’m glad to hear that wasn’t the case at all.
-
Stephen
Timely post, as the trailer to RMK was a featured video on YouTube’s homepage today. I only wish some of the less-informed commenters (knitters or otherwise) took the time to read your review.
I’m briefly in the video (the cable needle guy) and a fellow knitter on the structural/technical side of the cables vs. colors spectrum. I appreciate Wendy’s exploration into men knitting as some books, magazines, podcasts, conventions, classes and LYS’s skip over the possibility of our participation (I’m avoiding charged words like denial or ignorance).
No disrespect to pioneers like Kaffe and Brandon, I’m excited to see what our generation of knitters create and add to the world of design.
Geralyn
I want to thankyou for your review. I have been teaching girls AND boys how to knit for the last 12+ years as a Waldorf/Steiner school handwork teacher (grades 1-8). Beyond the physical, social and intellectual benefits the actual skill of knitting has been something that all my students have thoroughly enjoyed. It is always something of a surprise to parents that the boys are so enamored of knitting and are often the first truly proficient knitters in Grade One. My own 16 year old son, who does not currently knit, was watching me the other day and was intrigued by the pattern that I was creating and still knew all the terminology to describe what he was seeing. I am hopeful that he will one day return to the craft that taught him so much about confidence, courage and math!
Brian Sawyer
Scenester Scarf-Hat Build Log
Over at the Craft blog today, I briefly reviewed Speed Knitting by Kris Percival, to coincide with the free download of the “Scenester Scarf-Hat” pattern from that book. Here are my build notes for that project, with some advice and things to look out for along the way.
Gather Your Materials
Here’s what you’ll need for the pattern:
- 200 grams of “fluffy, bulky yarn”
- Though this description is a little vague, my experience is that the yarn you use in this project can’t be fluffy or bulky enough. Though I’ll admit I’m a fairly tight knitter, I used Wool-Ease “Thick & Quick,” which the label describes as “super bulky weight,” and my gauge didn’t quite measure up (see next section). My advice is to as big as you can.
- Size 15 needles
- Though the pattern calls specifically for circular needles, they’re really not necessary for this project. Because you won’t work anything in the round, straight needles would work just fine. Since I prefer circulars anyway and didn’t have any size 15s in any style, I went ahead and bought the circulars, as directed, in the 29″ length.
- 4 stitch markers
- You actually do need these, unless you’re really good at counting, have a memory like a steel trap, and not easily distracted. If you’re buying them new, get them as big as you can. The largest size markers in my pack were annoyingly snug on the size 15 monster needles. (You could also use pretty much anything that will fit conveniently around a knitting needle as a stitch marker. If this is your first project and you’re not sure if you’re going to stick with this knitting thing, real knitting markers might not be worth the investment.)
- A few standard-issue pieces in any knitting kit
- You’ll need each of the tape measure, scissors, yarn needle, and stitch holder at least once.
Okay, got everything together? Let’s get knitting.
Check Your Gauge
Because I’m impatient and don’t like dawdling when I’ve got an exciting project to try, I used to never bother checking my gauge. But, as any knitter does, when I started to knit more complex and lengthy projects, such as sweaters, I realized the importance of making sure I was starting out on the right track. If your gauge doesn’t match what the pattern designer is expecting, you’re bound to have a mismatched mess of a finished project.
Like most patterns, this one has the gauge right there on the first page, but somehow I didn’t notice it (guess I was moving too quickly). Since the condensed steps seemed to suggest a preference for just the essentials, I assumed no gauge was included and just started knitting (this is supposed to be speed knitting, after all). After trotting along quickly, I’d just about finished the first half of the scarf before realizing the pattern did include the gauge and that I wasn’t hitting it.
So, before you begin, check the gauge (~1.5 stitches per inch) and the “Finished Dimensions” guidelines in the sidebar on the second page of the pattern (page 26 in the printed book). You’ll see that your scarf should be about 6.5″ wide. Mine was closer to 4″, but I was cruising and on a deadline, so I didn’t look back.
Anyway, I’m told skinny scarves are in. But if a wider scarf is important to you and you too come up short, you might need to add a few stitches to get the desired size.
Step 01
The pattern says to cast on 10 stitches, but as I mentioned in the previous section, you might want to go with a few more if you’re concerned about your scarf being too thin.
See my little How to Cast On post if you need a refresher. (Casting on is also covered in the book’s reference material, on page 108). I’d intended to include that tutorial here, but then I figured it wouldn’t really be essential for most people.
Once you’re done casting on, here’s what your 10 stitches should look like:
Steps 02-03
Now, it’s time to start knitting up the piece. Don’t be thrown off by the term “reverse stockinette stitch.” It basically just means that the purl side is the “right” side and the knit side is the “wrong” side. But when you’re knitting your first row, this doesn’t really make much of a practical difference.
So, just start knitting in stockinette (knit one row, purl one row) until you get to six inches. After ending with a purl row on the “right” side, you’re going to just start purling on the next row, which will be on the “wrong” side (i.e., back to stockinette stitch, dropping the reverse). You can also safely ignore the instruction to mark the last row as folding point. Trust me, the fold line will be obvious.
Sorry if my clarification is just as potentially confusing as the pattern. All you really need to know is to do stockinette stitch. When you purl two consecutive rows, the side you want to show to the world will reverse. After the pocket is folded up, the stitches will be consistent if you keep on stockinetting from the fold.
Steps 04-05
From here on out to the end of the scarf, you’ll be “slipping” the first stitch on each row, which just means inserting the needle into the stitch as if to knit and then sliding it off without actually knitting it. As far as I can tell, this touch just gives a nice selvage to the piece.
Steps 06-08
“Knitting two together” is perhaps the easiest way to decrease (just as it sounds, put the needle through two stitches, the leftmost one first, and knit them as if they were a single stitch). You’ll do it twice on this row, once at each end, to bring your stitch count down to 8 (if you started with 10, as per the instructions).
It’s customary to do increases or decreases on a right-side row, so the next row is a purl row and step 08 asks you to decrease one more time, before continuing to the end of this side of the scarf.
Steps 09-10
Here’s where that stitch holder comes in handy, to tuck this side of the scarf away until we’re ready for it again. Leaving the yarn attached, as instructed, would make fine sense if you were indeed using four skeins of yarn, but I was using two huge skeins and didn’t want to start over with a new one on the other side. So, I cut the yarn here, which didn’t seem to be much of a problem.
Then, do the other side just as you did the first. Before joining the two sides of the scarf, you’ll need to add two stitches to the end of the row on the second side. The easiest way to do this is with a mid-row cast-on (really, just twisting yarn to loop around the needle).
When I joined the sides together, I just kept knitting with the yarn from the second side of the scarf, rather than picking up the yarn that should have been attached to the first side. Didn’t seem to make a difference when I weaved in my ends later (step 21).
Step 11
This row just sets up your markers, which tell you when to increase or decrease in the steps that follow for shaping the hood.
Though the second and third markers were necessary for that purpose, I didn’t find the first and fourth very helpful at all. If you can remember to make sure to knit the first two and last two stitches of every row (and the pattern reminds you to do this with every step anyway), regardless of whether you’re on the right or wrong side, you can safely ignore these markers and just substitute “first” for “second” and “second” for “third” in the rest of the pattern, which is what I did. If you’re concerned about forgetting to do this, go ahead and keep those markers. Otherwise, you’ll mess up that nice edge for your hood.
Steps 12-19
These increase and decrease rows are pretty standard fare, but I’m going to reiterate my warning about gauge here. If your gauge was coming up short when you started and you didn’t do anything to fix it, realize that your length will be off too, not just your width.
This didn’t make much difference for the scarf, because the instructions had you knit to a specific length anyway, but the instructions for the hood assume your gauge is correct and base when (and how many) to do your increases based on that gauge.
Because my gauge was off, I ended up with a hood that was a skoche narrower than I would have liked, and I had to knit more rows than the pattern called for just to get to an appropriate length (which also meant that the increases and decreases weren’t in the ideal spots for shaping).
Don’t make the same mistake I did. But if you do, space out your increases and decreases a bit further apart.
Step 20
The instructions behind this two-word step (“Bind off”) are covered on page 112, in the reference material. This is another one of those basic knitting techniques I used to always have to look up for every project, mainly because you only do it once to a few times per project. Don’t be too shy or embarrassed to look it up.
Step 21
Making seams is also covered well in the reference material (pages 120-121), but I must admit that, until I actually bound off the piece, this instruction had me scratching my head a bit. The pockets were pretty self-explanatory, but I thought “seam hood” could have used an illustration, perhaps like the one on the right.
Basically, to finish the hood, you need to fold the edge over itself (left bound-off edge touching right bound-off edge) and stitch a seam back to the spot they call the fontanelle in babies (don’t know if it has a name in adults). Doing this makes it look much more like a hood and much less like a napkin placed on the top of your head, so I’m glad I eventually figured it out (you astute knitters probably picked this up without having to be told, but I’m nothing if not thorough and self-effacing).
Blocking
Even if you followed your gauge and are happy with the width of your scarf and hood, you still might want to block the piece (blocking is covered on page 124 of the book). With such a narrow piece, the unavoidable edge curl of stockinette stitch is very noticeable. Blocking won’t get rid of it completely, but it will help minimize it a bit.
All Done
And that’s it! I hope this overly long post about my experience with this pattern has been helpful. If you have any questions, please go ahead and ask, and I’ll do my best to answer them. And if you knit your own Scenester Scarf-Hat, please let me know, and send pictures!
Sari, 
Katherine and 5 others are discussing. -
Beth
Thanks for the tips! I want to try this pattern too but I’m using a thinner yarn and smaller needles so it’s good to see more pictures.
-
allelejean
I just finished this pattern and I really found it left a bit out. I really could have used a row gauge or length measurement on the hood.
One tip I have is that instead of binding off and seaming, I used a kitchener stitch to graft the hood together.
I really love how mine turned out. I used 2 strands of yarn- Knitpicks Sierra and Knitpicks Suri Dream. It’s just so cozy!
-
nicole
thanks so much for explaining this pattern. i couldn’t remember where it came from and then i was so confused by some of the pattern instructions–thanks for the pictures!
-
Nancy Stender
Thanks for the illuminating instructions. I knitted this with Rowan Big Wool and size 15 needles. The original pattern, by Percival, I thought was very poorly written (just because something is supposed to be quick to knit doesn’t mean you have to skimp on essential directions). I, too, was extremely puzzled by where to sew it together, and how, and was frustrated by a lack of instructional detail and diagrams. When I finally seamed it together, even though I basically hit the guage markers, I was unhappy with how skimpy the hood looked, so I picked up stitches all along the hood and knitted about 6 rows of garter stitch. I definitely improved the look of the piece and caused the hood to look more curved and “hoody-like.” I am also planning on lining the hood and backs of the scarf pieces with polar fleece in a complimentary color.
-
Helpful Hannah
Instead of buying knitting markers, on any size needle you can use a little tied circle of contrasting yarn to slip on and off during the rows you are knitting (just as you do a metal or plastic marker piece). The yarn can always be just the right size!
-
Katherine
I’m fairly new to knitting and although I was super excited when I found this pattern (I have the book), I started it…and have been a little lost. I had my grandma sit down and look at the pattern and she showed me how to slip stitches and mark (she suggested I tie a different color yarn around the last stitch because I don’t have markers). Annnnnyway, I came online looking for help, and found the most helpful thing I could stumble across. Thank you!
-
tata
I’m still a novice and was thrilled when I found this pattern. I whipped it out in 2 days (pretty quick for a mama of a toddler!), but got hung up on the instructions for the hood. I agree with Nancy (comment #4) that the directions were skimped. I had to improvise because, like you, I overlooked gauge (I got 2 stitches per inch and 3 stitches per row).
I must say that I am pretty disappointed in this project. The narrow stockinette scarf is still too curly for my taste and the hood is awkward. I may try to do it again, improvising even more on the pattern to better suit both my taste and my anatomy!
-
Sari
This was really great…I am going to download this pattern and follow along with your blog…I am so bad with winter clothes and I can walk out without a coat on…so this little hat/scarf/mitts would be great for me.
Thank you
Brian Sawyer
How to Cast On
There are some things I constantly find myself going back to my knitting books for a refresher on, and casting on is one of them. I’ve built it into my muscle memory now, but for years I’d need to consult some reference or another to remind me how to start every new project.
If you’re anything like me, you can use a reminder on occasion about even some of the most basic knitting techniques. If so, I hope you find this little tutorial helpful. It also might be useful for any beginners out there who are trying to tease out the meat from the illustrations in knitting books that often don’t speak very well from themselves.
There are, of course, many different ways to cast on, but once I learned this one, I never bothered to learn another. Anyway, here’s how I do it:
- To begin the slipknot that will become the first cast-on stitch, make a loop with the yarn, leaving about an inch of tail for each stitch you plan to cast on (in this example, we’ll use 10+ inches for 10 stitches) and a few extra inches, just to be safe.
- Loop a section of the tail and pull it through your first loop. The slipknot formed by second loop will be your first stitch, while the first loop will provide the tension.
- Insert the needle through the slipknot and pull it tight. You’ve cast on your first stitch.
- Hold the needle in your right hand, with the knot of the first stitch facing away from you. Loop the tail around your left thumb (as shown here), and insert your needle into the front of the loop.
- Wrap the skein-side yarn around the tip of your needle, just as you do when knitting.
- Fold the loop in your left hand over the tip of the needle and pull taut. You’ve just cast on your second stitch and are ready to do the rest just like this one.
Once you’re done casting on, here’s what your 10 stitches should look like:
And that’s basically it. Works every time.
Rob, 
-
Céline
Hi,
I’ve tried this particular type of cast on I don’t know how many times, trying to follow different indications in different books, and I still don’t get it. I must be a bit dense that way. But I’ll give it another try with yours. Maybe the fact that the yarn is green will help!
Thanks!
-
Brian Sawyer
Don’t sweat it. It’s really hard to learn even basic techniques from a book. I had this particular lesson in person more than once and still found myself fumbling through numerous books to remember how to do it later.
-
Rob
another place to look if a particular technique isn’t “clicking” for you is knittinghelp.com — Amy has videos showing most common stitches, and she shows almost all of them in both english and continental style:
http://knittinghelp.com/knitting/basic_techniques/index.php
long-tail is the one i use (“the slingshot one”).
Brian Sawyer
DIY DPNs
Though I guess the basic idea behind DIY knitting needles has been around for some time, I first learned about it from Danese Cooper at last year’s FOO Camp. In short, you take wooden dowels, sharpen the working ends with a pencil sharpener, sand down the points a bit, and hot glue buttons to the base. You wind up with some useful and not unattractive knitting needles that serve as a great conversation piece for any knitting circle or get-together.
I’d planned to work up a whole how-to on this, but the process is pretty straightforward and has already been covered elsewhere, notably in this great tutorial.
But there is something I’ve seen less coverage of that might be worth adding here (though I’m by no means claiming it as original), and that’s how easy it is to use skewers for the same purpose. Since they’re so thin, you’re of course limited in the size of knitting needle you’re going for, but they’re perfect for those pesky double-pointed needles (DPNs) I always seem to need only once, in some odd size I don’t have, for just a simple cuff or something on a much larger project.
Just get yourself some wooden skewers (you can even find some nice bamboo ones, which will make them even closer to my personal favorite style of needles) and follow the instructions in the tutorial I linked to earlier in this post, sharpening both ends instead of applying something like clay or a button to the base (since DPNs are, of course, double-pointed).
You might need to experiment with a variety of skewer styles, especially if you’re looking for a particular size, but skewers are so inexpensive (especially compared with the mind-boggling price of nice bamboo DPNs) you can afford to buy a bunch and mess around. This is something else I haven’t seen much discussion of with DIY knitting needles: size. Some arbitrary size is great if you’re just learning to knit and any old sticks will do, but you need to be a little more deliberate if you’re making something to work with a pattern; your gauge will obviously be blown with a guess at needle size.
So, get yourself a needle size and knitting gauge checker and size those skewers up. As you see, I’ve got the materials for a nice set of size 3s:
Make yourself needles in as many different sizes as you can find skewers for and keep them on hand for those odd projects that don’t warrant investing in the real thing. These DIY DPNs are a perfectly workable alternative, as you can see with these finished size 3s working up a sock I just might never finish (for reasons that have nothing to do with the needles):
UPDATE
Over at Craftzine.com, Natalie passes on Laurie’s handy dowel-to-knitting-needle size conversion guide:
Approximate dowel sizes are:
5/16″ = about a size 11
1/4″ = about a size 10
7/32″ = about a size 9
3/16″ = about a size 7
1/8″ = about a size 4above a 5/16″ won’t fit in most pencil sharpeners.
She also points to a great roundup of other DIY knitting needle tutorials, including circulars. Nice!
Marcie and 3 others are discussing. -
dangerousangel
Good idea! They should be just right to cut short for glove fingers. I’m going to try it. I like lace knitting and have taken and ground down bicycle spokes to make needles in about the #1 size range. They work great, if you have the patience to work that small!
-
oldladypenpal
Nice!
Every time we eat at one of those fancy sandwich shops, my kids hand me the mega toothpicks the shop uses. “Mama, you can knit with these!” And I swear one of these days I will!Are there any options for coloring these that won’t create a potential hazard for the yarn?
-
Brian Sawyer
Are there any options for coloring these that won’t create a potential hazard for the yarn?
Hmmm… I honestly don’t know. I’ve been doing these mainly for function and haven’t gotten into too many frills. Anyone else know ways to dye wood that won’t rub off on yarn?
-
salt
I made myself some dpns from dowels when I couldn’t find the right size commercially. Because the wood seemed excessively grabby even after sanding, I coated them with a couple coats of acrylic sealer (like varnish only thinner, clearer, water soluble). I sanded (320 grit) between coats, except for the last coat, and ended up with a nice smooth but not too slow finish. And that sealed the band of acrylic paint I put around the middle for visual identification of the set. Those needles have been used twice now without any loss of that paint.
So I’m thinking that if you want to color the wood, working a thinned acrylic paint into it before sealing might work. Or a good water-soluble dye. And then at least a couple coats of sealer, which I think is the key: anything else, oil- or water-based, is going to be lifted out of the wood again by being handled as you knit.
-
Brian Sawyer
Great advice and beautiful needles, salt! Thanks for adding to this post with your experience and expertise.
-
oldladypenpal
Thanks, Salt! Thanks, Brian!
-
Marcie
Ive noticed that when I try to make the smaller sizes (i.e.7s or smaller) they break really easily, one broke while I was sanding. I got the dowels from michaels, any suggestions on buying some that dont break so easily or is this only a good idea for larger sizes or am I just a rough knitter :0)
-
Brian Sawyer
Marcie: that’s an interesting point, and I must admit that I haven’t used my DIY needles enough or tested them hard enough to get them to break, though that makes a lot of sense. Wish I had some suggestions for alternatives, beyond actual knitting needles.
Kazzan 1:01 am on March 9, 2007 Permalink | Log in to Reply
Very nice video.